Friday, April 21, 2006

Wazwan in Itaewon, Seoul

The word Wazwaan is actually a combination of two words Waza’ and ‘Waan’. The first means “Cook” while the second translates into “Shop” and therefore the combination means nothing else but a restaurant. In olden days the kings in Kashmir used to be pampered by the Royal Wazwaan meaning the Royal Feast. A restaurant in Seoul has named itself the same and in some websites I did read up some good reviews. A friend had recently been there too and I was quite eager to pay a visit. So last Friday a colleague cooked up this plan of having an Indian meal out, and all roads led to Itaewon.

This restaurant is located just after you cross the Itaewon Mosque on your left and I am sure you will not miss it. Typical to South Asian restaurants in Seoul there was a television broadcasting a song and dance routine from a Indian Film The décor was typically Islamic with the table cloth having a silver bead work and the wall hangings. The propaganda of religion was all quite evident, but that’s a different story. It was neat and clean, the welcome was warm and that’s what matters. In size the restaurant was not too big, but I don’t seem to mind homely atmospheres.

Our main agenda was the food and I was not too disappointed that did not have a buffet. This would mean that we could choose a la carte and therefore not get stuck with a fixed set. Before I could blurt out any choice I heard my fellow colleagues rambling out their preferences where they had considered me too!! Taking opinions perhaps was not on their agenda. We had a vegetarian amongst us and I realized that he too was absolved from making any decisions except for the Nan and Rotes (Indian Breads).

The first that arrived on the table was a plate of rounded onion slices. They were juicy and cold and the ideal way to take off after dousing them with some lime juice and a generous sprinkle of salt and pepper.
My vegetarian friend was sitting in front of me and therefore I had the added advantage of easy access to the vegetarian numbers too as they arrived. The first entrée was a Dal Makhani (Lentil/Pulses in a Butter and Cream based gravy) and that was reasonably good along with the Butter Nan. The Kadhai Paneer (Cubed Cottage Cheese in a spicy concoction of onions and capsicum) was delectable and the cheese was soft. The Nan was soft and nice but the Roti was no good and would require major improvement in terms of the proportions of mix, the mixing process for the dough to come into being. The baking controls also would need to be monitored unless they continuously want to serve large round crisp cookies!!

The Mutton Masala (Spicy Mutton/Lamb Curry) was not bad and I enjoyed the quality of meat served. The taste of the gravy was also good and was going well with the Nan. The Chicken Kadhai was good, and it tasted the same as the Paneer Dish as it was supposed to in any case. The only Kashmiri item in the menu ironically is the Rogan Josh that we had not ordered for!! The Gosht (Mutton) pepper fry in the menu could be termed as one but not for the Kashmiri experts!! The Seekh Kebabs (barbecued minced meat with herbs) were good too!!

At the end of the meal my friends embarrassingly asked for a discount and even tried calling up the owner. I was feeling a bit out of place but I attributed that to an over dose of Korean alcohol, though not condoning the activities. The Kulfi (Indian Pista based Ice Cream) at the end instead was a quick response by the restaurateur and we consumed the same.

If somebody asks me whether I would like to go back to Wazwan, it would be a “Yes”. For one, I could not try out the items of my inclination (and more since I was supposedly visiting a Kashmiri joint). The food was overall good and each dish was definitely different in taste and look. However, perhaps due to local taste adjustments there is a bit of sweetness in their dishes that should be avoided. Overall I would rate it with a 5 on 10 and I am being very liberal. Hope you agree!!

Related links:
1. http://seouldays.blogspot.com/2006/02/indian-restaurants-in-seoul.html
2. http://seouldays.blogspot.com/2006/02/lazy-sunday-talk-sunday-has-arrived.html
3. http://seouldays.blogspot.com/2006/03/friday-evening-at-chakraa-itaewon.html Sphere: Related Content

Tuesday, April 18, 2006

Recharge your happiness - A visit to Gyodong

Click HERE for a newspaper article on this!!

Saturday, the 15th of April finally arrived and I woke up to the alarm that I had set. I finished my morning chores in time, as I had to reach the KNTO Building in Dadong by eight forty five or so. This whole week I was waiting for the day to arrive. Firstly, I had never participated in a program like this and secondly, I did not really know what to expect. It was a two-day one-night program where they had selected about thirty foreigners in Seoul through some selection process and I considered myself lucky to be chosen. The itinerary was published well in advance and I was eagerly looking forward to the course of events yet to unfold.

So I landed up at the KNTO building and went in to the reception to find nobody out there until somebody pointed out that the action is the Basement. I did find another guy waiting circumspectly, but I think he just followed behind as I negotiated my way to the quite elaborate B1 Floor that serves as a Tourist Information Centre, Mr. Lee, the gentleman in charge of the show greeted me with a big smile in his face and that was quite a reassurance for me.

Before I get into further details, let me explain what was this trip all about. KNTO and the NACF (National Agricultural Foundation)) has taken a step to promote green tourism in the country. This means that they expect foreigners to come to Korea and visit the countryside, the farms and while they enjoy the uninhibited geography, they would also contribute to the rural economy. More tourists logically “do” have a direct contribution to the economy. KNTO had advertised in the website about this program and since I was anyway looking out for some out if the way activity, I sent in my application. So here I was on my way to an “off the beaten track” sojourn. We were to visit a village about 80 kilometers away from Seoul towards the DMZ and a number of activities scheduled were awaiting us.

The motley crowd had a fair mix of different nationalities. China, Singapore, Japan, Australia\, Russia, Kazakhstan, Canada and USA were represented along with this sole Indian fellow from Seoul. The bus was comfortable and as soon as it started on its course we were welcomed by the charming Dana our guide and a couple of others from KNTO and NACF (the sponsors). A brief run down on our schedule was given along with a bottle of water and a free orange!! Off we were, well prepared to spend some time away from the hustle and bustle of the big city.

It took us about two and a half hours to reach our destination Gyodong, one of the designated “Farmstay” villages, We reached there and while a grand welcome was ready for us, what surprised me was the presence of the media in full force. This was apparently a big event and we had no inkling of that. The reporters, the cameramen they were all there asking us questions and clicking their camera shutters. In fact the television crew requested us to re-alight from the bus since they had missed the original sequence!!

The villagers welcomed us with big grins and we were specially greeted by Mr. Lee, the headman you could say and he took us around the village, It was a quaint little place with well structured individual dwellings and I was wondering as to which one of them was going to be my sleeping joint, but more about that later. The village lay surrounded by small hills beside a stream that I guess joined up with the nearby Hantan river. The dwellers of this village were comparatively younger than the others, and that’s the reason we could see a whole lot of innocent faces playing around and in general adding up to the atmosphere. Mr. Lee took us around the village and we even got introduced to a dog that had a story, of saving lives from fire, behind him. The houses were neat with their own little courtyards and individual gardens and I could see some spring flowers too.

After that brief walk through, we were treated with some coffee to begin with and we all slowly petered into the dining hall, where a sit-down arrangement was already in place for lunch. I guess we were to eat first and then would come the hard work!! Lunch was pretty elaborate in the usual Korean style. We were treated with the delicious sun-dubu (soft tofu with a mixture of salt and sesame oil as accompaniment). The mandatory kimchi and other cold salads were there too.

Our hunger satiated, we immediately left for the mushroom farm that was about 20 minutes away from the village. The bus was travelling on top gear, with the media convoy of five cars following us with equal zeal!!

The mushroom farm was interesting, and was a lesson by itself since I guess none of us had any prior knowledge about mushroom cultivation. The mixing of the seeds, the germination in controlled environments - they were all new to me. Later we were allowed to pick mushrooms and that’s when we were informed on how mushrooms keep sprouting out of the organic mould. It reminded me of the Tintin series of comics where in The Shooting Stars, mushrooms were mushrooming!! We posed for the photographers as usual. We were also treated with some mushrooms and Kochujung (Korean Chilli Pepper/Garlic Paste) and we all sampled the same in spite of a full stomach! I did click some photographs their but then I had to allocate some shots for an extremely cute little local Korean child jumping about all around us.

It was time to move on and the next stop was the rice farm. A few Koreans from neighbourhood towns had come there to help the farmers in setting the rice seeds in trays of soil that would be later transferred to the green house for growing saplings. Some of us joined in the activity while we all cheered. The village folks were all smiling too, and I guess we were providing quite an elegant show for them.

It was time to go but before that we were demonstrated how in olden times the folks used to lug heavy paddy bags on their back. A few tried, but I guess couldn’t muster up the technique required to pull off the stunt. Surprisingly, I was hungry again and perhaps it was the promise of bulgogi (barbecued beef) that made my enzymes go bonkers. We were off again and now back to the village for some more “activities”.

The crowd in the village had decidedly increased and the reason was a direct fall out of the school children returning home after a whole day of studies. They had all lined up along with the others to see us now made to sit on the community centre steps and awaiting our next set of instructions. A basket arrived with small bamboo cylinders with a hole on the body, somewhat like a flute to be played sideways. We were given apiece each along with an elastic band and a small piece of paper. The paper was to be wrapped around one side of the cylinder and then the band rolled around keep the former in place. Now all we had to do was bring the piece near our mouth, the lips touching the hole mentioned earlier, and then blow/hum. The result was termed as music contrary to what my ear was hearing! So now we were this bunch of amateur musicians trying to produce music through this equipment. We were told that as a tradition in olden days, when the farmer or shepherd boy as the case may be would get bored in the fields, this was one piece of musical equipment that kept him entertained. I did not dare to blurt out my decidedly rude query regarding the bloke’s sourcing of elastic bands and paper those days!!

Finally we were all a bit relaxed and I did get down to a bit of socialising. Not that I had spoken to some before, but now I made that extra effort to go and talk to the other group members. Engineers from Samsung in Suwon, English Teachers from Seoul, tourists from Singapore, students from China, Japan and even Kazhakhstan, they were all there. Before we could really warm up, the next activity was announced and off we were busy in trying to wind up straws to create straw-sandals. To be honest with you, I was a disaster but don’t form your impressions too soon. I was compelled to learn the technique by this good teacher out there (an old man of about 90) and he made me do it right all the way!! Language was not the barrier out here!! It was the seamless flow of mental energy!! Later I did pose for the KBS cameraman for a few sequences of walking around, but I am sure that will not find a place on the editing table.

The filming was in full swing and the producer had informed that he would name it as “Recharging of Happiness”. In spite of a few smirks from the international crowd, I could feel the sincerity in his mind and that’s what mattered. So now we were almost done and though my digestive enzymes were half dead, the news of dinner woke them up. It was about 6.30 in the evening and we could now smell the meat being barbecued on charcoal grills. In Korean they call it Samgyeopsal which basically means three layered meat (meat, fat, meat) strips barbecued, Yow are supposed to take a piece of meat, a garlic clove, a bit of baap (steamed rice), kochujung and all of these wrap it up in a lettuce leaf and consume. A glass of makoli (sweet rice wine) as accompaniment and that made my day. I didn’t miss the earlier promised bulgogi.

The sun had set and it was time for a bonfire. The villagers had all arrived back after a whole day’s work and we all started mixing around. As I mentioned earlier, we were eager to know all about each other and we tried any which way you can. The best part is that we succeeded in our efforts and that’s what counts.

The bonfire was up and in the light created by the fire I could see the glowing faces all around, perhaps trying to absorb the moments as they occurred. The fire was very comforting since it was a bit chilly and it was like the nucleus of the village spreading its warmth on this cross border congregation.

The Samulnori dance performers were scheduled next and I was all along waiting for this since percussion music has always been a favourite of mine. They were mostly housewives and teenagers playing those rustic Korean traditional drums and I was enjoying the beats. It lasted for about an hour and I could feel my pulse dancing to the beats. At the end of it was a bonus of an opportunity of us able to try the drums and I jumped at it. A performer tried to teach me the sequence of beats that I quickly reproduced much to her delight and mine too!! The drums and the other instruments were quite similar to a lot of Indian instruments and I was quite pleased on the whole. Mind you, the media was there too. They were participating along with us and also doing their mandatory bit of asking us questions on how we are feeling and allied.

Well it was almost 9:30 and it was again time for some Makoli and Korean Pancakes made of some vegetables that I forgot to ask!! The announcements were due regarding the unfortunate families who would have to host us for the night and I am sure both sides were equally circumspect. But that bit of uneasiness was over and done with as soon as I entered me house my respective host. On hindsight I could tell you, that they were more than glad to have me as their guest. It was my mind that was on the blink rather than theirs. The complex walls of society, culture and language were broken so smoothly and it was just like sand meshing into more sand. We got along famously and the hot cup of coffee was just a symbol of the warmth all around. It was a small family, consisting of a couple and two kids going to middle and junior schools. We talked about India, my stay in Korea, their likes and my hobbies and anything else under the sun. They were more curious than me and I obliged with as much information as they wanted. The day had come to an end and how unfortunate was that,

At bed with my eyes closed I thought about the serene countryside and the abundance of oxygen and energy. The grass is greener on the other side, but when that there’s nothing to beat the green of the countryside!!

DAY 2:

My cell phone was tuned to ring at 6:30 but I didn’t allow the event to occur since I was up and about earlier. I finished my morning chores and in no time I was ready to attack the day and the start was with some traditional Korean breakfast consisting of a hot soup, rice and some other varieties of cold salads, followed with a cup of hot coffee. We were quite glad to see each other in the morning and while we exchanged the morning greetings we also reflected on the day that had gone by. All of us were quite elated by the experience and we were all looking forward to the series of activities to follow.

Today was sightseeing day I knew that we would be visiting the de-militarized zone between North and South Korea. The prospect was exciting and we all boarded the bus on our way to a place named Goseokjeong. There is a museum on North and South Korea there and there is a huge compound with a concrete statue of the local Korean Robin Hood during the days of the Chosun Dynasty by the name of Guk-Jung Im.

But more than that it was the scenic beauty of the Hantan River meandering its way in between the cliffs and I did take some shots of the picturesque river valley. We spend some time soaking in the natural beauty around us and then off we were to the DMZ area. I wish we if we could have spent some more time out they’re but time as usual was the spoilsport and I didn’t blame it since we had so much to cover.

On the way a Korean soldier got up in the bus as an escort and we all clapped for him and that must have only added to his awe. In no time we were transported to the 2nd Tunnel entrance (Tunnels were dug by North Korea to infiltrate South Korea even after the agreements done post-Korean war and this one was discovered in 1975) and we had to deposit our cameras since photography was not allowed inside. We were given yellow helmets to wear and we started climbing down the narrow stairway. We were now almost 100 metres underground or more when we landed in the actual tunnel pathway. It was hard granite all around and I am sure it must have been quite an effort to come this far by the North Koreans. The pains people take to fight!!

We were told that while on reconnaissance duty a few South Korean soldiers heard some underground explosions and then after investigations and excavations they discovered the tunnels. Four such tunnels have been discovered and there could be more. So while the preliminary explorations were on, South Korea lost 10 soldiers due to mine blasts inside the tunnel. We walked the full stretch for about 700 meter and reached the end where we were not allowed any further. There was nothing spectacular about the tunnel, and rather it was the feel of it that mattered. The visions of war and fighting are extremely traumatic in there own way and this was perhaps another reminder of the cruel times that we are in and may encounter personally any time

The sombre mood however quickly vanished as we came out of the tunnel and we again became the tourists we are and clicked photographs with the guard and some of the girls even posed with him as if this was a fashion magazine-shooting going on.

Over and all, I was quite happy with the visit and we were again packed into the bus which started tolling towards our next destination. The Iron Triangle Observatory was where from you could see the North Korea border. The telescopes were ready to show us the area but not before gobbling up some coins. In tourism, everything and anything is like a vending machine. Keep pouring money, and it churns out the stuff. I was not too impressed by the observatory and perhaps I need to visit another one in some other place for a better sight.

The Woljeongri station was what kindled my interest. This was an old relic station, and they had preserved a train which was bombed during the war. The memories of war are not a pleasant sight and this was one of them. Outside in beside the parking lot there was a garden that had several obelisks set up with inscriptions in Korean, The South Korean common man’s plea for unification was publicized through them.

That was DMZ and I could see the crowd now decidedly tired and I felt that most were now awaiting lunch and the departure back home. That was not to be so as yet since we were yet to visit a building that was the office of the labour party prior to the division of the country. The remains were basically the structure and this was one place where freedom fighters were tortured and interrogated.

We were made to stand together in front of the building for a group photograph and then we all were back in our seats. It was lunch time, folks and on arrival at the Gyodong village we were again treated by the smiles of the host and of course that was followed by Bibimbaap (Steamed rice mixed with vegetables a red tomato pepper sauce, a fried egg, a favorite of mine. A cup of coffee, some pleasantries, some hugs, some smiles and we were back on our way to Seoul.

The media was there to take some interviews and thy asked a few relevant questions. One of them was the reason for me choosing to apply. The second question in their mind was an open ended one, where they wanted to know my about my feelings and experience. The third was about my most memorable occasion or moment.

I gave them the reply that I genuinely thought and had reasoned it out to myself. The reason for me applying for this trip was to get away from the big city and breathe the innocence of the countryside. I don’t know about the others but when I experienced the moments the feelings over awed me. The hug of a farmer who I didn’t know, the smile of a child seeing an alien like me, the care and the respect by the villagers, they were all adding up. Tears were absent, but what was crying was the emotional attachment to all that was happening around. This was the best weekend ever without a doubt.

Before the start of the journey, if you remember, the KBS producer had mentioned that he would name the program “ Recharge your happiness”. (Translated from Korean). In the beginning the idea was superfluous but at the end of it I knew what he meant. Sphere: Related Content

Thursday, April 13, 2006

Subway and Bus, Seoul - Brief Snapshot

The subway system in Seoul can definitely be recognised as one of the world’s best in terms of speed, coverage, connectivity and when you couple it with the on road bus system, the combination is fantastic.

The Seoul subway system like many other countries is numbered. This means that each end-to-end line has a number and colour code attached to it and the combination is followed in any station and train of that particular line. The stations on a particular line have not only their names but have also been allocated a distinct 3-digit number with the starting digit reflecting the Line number. There are junction stations where you could transfer from one line to another. Before arrival at a station, announcements are done in Korean and English that include even the direction of the platform. Some trains have displays inside them. Some newer stations have displays where you can even make out pictorially when a train is approaching.

The trains are extremely neat and clean except perhaps on rainy or snowy days where a bit of dirt does accumulate on the floor space but nothing too hard to digest. The frequency is good and schedules are all available on display at the stations. The schedule charts are in Korean but if you are enterprising you could make out what’s happening. If you still have a problem don’t bother too much. The frequency is quite good. The station names are available in English and Korean except on the electronic Display boards in the platform that talk about arriving trains and destination. You don’t really need to bother since the announcements are in English too.

The stations are well connected with the city overhead with stairs, escalators and elevators. For the handicapped, some stations have an automatic transportation system while for the blind the paths are marked out.

The subway systems connectivity maps are available in most stations and you could ask for English versions at the local station. For ticket denominations to a destination, you could have a look at the chart displayed in all stations or you could ask at the counter and pay the requisite amount. Once you are familiar, you could buy your own tickets with Notes or Coins even from the automatic vending machines. The balance is returned to you by twisting a knob on the machine!!

When you take directions from people, not only would you ask the station but also the Exit No leading you out from the station. If you take the wrong exit you may land up in a totally senseless direction!!

The Bus system in Seoul is another fantastic example of transportation and once you are familiar with it, I can tell you that you would find it a preferable mode of traveling in the city. Most foreigners in Seoul hardly use the bus system and still definitely find the subways easier, I, and a few friends I know, use both in an extremely optimal manner. There are “Six” Types of buses (the sites talk about 3) in Seoul. The Red, Blue, Green – Two Types, Yellow and the CNG types.

The Reds (4 digit numbers mostly starting with 9) are long distance Intra-City buses and I use them very rarely since over a longer distance, trains are better. The Blues (3 digit numbers) have routes that touch upon a specific series of subway stations from one area of the city to another. The Green (4 digit numbers) buses have routes similar to the Blues but they seem to touch even interior parts of the cities where there may not be stations. The other Greens (2 Digit numbers like 01 or 02, etc) are purely local buses that feed typically a locality around a station. The Yellows (2 digit numbers) are circular routes touching upon a series of subway stations or important locales in the city. The bus web site is very good and you can easily define your route either by bus or combination with a subway and go about with your journey. The CNG buses are the ones that I have no clue of.

I have my own reasons for using the bus. For one, I don’t have to travel up and down the stairs and escalators of the subway stations. I get on at a stop and get off at a stop very near to my origin and destination points.

The other interesting concept is the transportation card available at stations, Family Marts, Grocery Stores, GS Stores and anybody having the T-Money symbol. These cards are available at a cost of 2500 WON (about 2,5 USD) and then you "fill" the card with money say 5000 won or 10000 Won or as much as you want. You then you get a 100 Won discount on your tickets along with the convenience of using a Card instead of churing out currency every time. You would have recovered the cost of this card after completion of the 25th journey (I did not have to use my head for that one).


The other interesting part when you have this card is that you could seamlessly transfer from one mode of transport to another. The computer system tracks the time intervals between transfers and you have to do the next transfer within 30 minutes of the preceding one. The combinations are as follows:

a) Bus To Bus...n number of times....after a period/distance they will charge you on an incremental basis.
b) Bus to Subway....no problem.
c) Subway to Bus ...same as above
d) Subway to Subway Line Change internally (in same station you are anyway not required to use a card)
e) If you come out of a subway station and then re-enter...the continuity is lost!!!

So theoretically a bus-subway-bus-bus-subway-bus-bus-bus...is a perfect example of continuity (remember the 30 minutes in between). If the above confuses you further, you are welcome to ask me questions on this.

So that’s that. I would seriously ask you guys to try out the buses and you would find it a good idea. The others can continue with the trains!!

The websites for your reference:

Subway Guide:

http://www.smrt.co.kr/english_smrt/cyberstation_smrt/cyberstation.jsp

Seoul Bus Guide:

http://bus.congnamul.com/SeoulRouteWebApp/view_english/map.jsp Sphere: Related Content

Monday, April 10, 2006

Insa-dong - Gifts from Seoul

There are two types of gifts I buy whenever I visit a different land (local or foreign). The first one are the items that have been requested or agreed upon with friends and folks back home. The other is the non-existing list and is entirely dependent on my fancy and whim. So when I landed in Seoul typically like most tourists I did land up at Insa-dong.

Insa-dong is located near Jongno-2ga and I would thinks it’s a quaint street, though very busy, about 150 metres in length. The street is filled with foreigners trying to look up all the different items on display by the shops of various sizes and dimensions. Most of the shopkeepers here speak English and they are quite eager to sell you their stuff. Exceptions prove the rule, and when I visited a shop specialising in masks the shopkeeper showed his extreme irritation due to our interrogations. So overall, you don’t have to worry at all, at least regarding behaviour.

The street surface is made up of stones and on holidays and Sundays vehicles are not allowed on the stretch. So you could just walk up and down the stretch enjoying the street side sellers’ marketing techniques, the numerous food vendors, and so on and so forth. My first entry was into this huge long shop with goods spilling all over. The main items on my agenda were Korean masks, Paintings on Rice Paper and anything else uniquely Korean. The masks were of varying shapes and sizes and on a variety of mountings. They were mostly made of wood while the odd shop could display some paper mache items too. Masks are something I like and started off with my selections since you get a variety of faces.

There are some good painting shops and you need to have an eye for detail or you might just land up with some riff-raff. It’s a good idea to ask for a framed painting and then you could carry out a good negotiation with the fella since the mounting does cost a bit. My experience of this reverse concept has been fruitful and therefore the suggestion. Do not ever buy on impulse and check out at least three to four shops before you zero down to something and this is applicable to anything!!

I found the wooden ducks quite cute which are supposedly to be gifted by couples to one another.. They come in pairs and at different sizes. While the sizes increase in arithmetic progression, the prices take the geometric route!! I also find the door chimes quite nice and typically Korean. The array of massage items on display on the outside street would be amazing and I didn’t have any idea what all you could do to relax yourself. The only item that has left me puzzled is the whip and perhaps somebody will enlighten me on its use!!

If you have a deal with the airlines on your luggage allowance, then perhaps you carry some nice wooden boxes with lacquer work and I am not talking about the small ones on display most of the time. The Korean dolls did not impress me much and I find the variety, design, simplicity or grandeur of the Japanese of immensely more appeal. You are free to judge yourself and I know I need not have mentioned this.

The metallic items of dragons and other fake antiques might appeal to you, but I stayed away from them. Then there are these typically touristy items like chopsticks, table mats , mugs and coasters. Aroma therapy items might impress you and if you might get a good deal for your inclination.

Now when it’s question of pricing I can guarantee you that prices here are marked up for sure. The tourists have come to buy after all. So I would suggest that if you are looking for some masks, coasters, bells, chimes, wall hangings it would be a good idea to visit Myongdong Departmental Store in Myongdong!!! Go to Euljiro-1-ga station (Line 2) and get out on Exit 6 and walk towards Myongdong. Keep walking, cross the Bank of Korea crossing and then the road curves slightly towards the left. Go past the curve and take a left in and then after about 50 meters you would find the store on your right. The prices are good and you would save some time and money!!! The Dongdaemun Flea market (inside the stadium) is a good place too and that’s where the locals frequent.

But Insadong you must visit. More than the soeuvenir shops, the guys playing flutes, the relaxed atmosphere, the food, the ambience, you'll surely enjoy. The emotion is more than the consumption and that's why this place is noteworthy. Do enjoy yourselves!!! Sphere: Related Content

Saturday, April 8, 2006

The Journey

The Journey !!

On a Sunday cloudy morning I have been trying for the last half an hour to focus on something to use my keystrokes on my laptop. My mind started traveling in all sorts of directions and then I chanced upon a magazine given to me by a fellow passenger last week, but let me get into that later.

I am a Hindu (follower of Hinduism) and therefore governed by these myriad complicated rules of the religious component of my society. Irrespective of the type of religion you may subscribe to, you would also be under the purview of your respective rule sets. The atheists of course may not follow any such paths but often and on they too land up following some ritual and customs due to social obligations or community pressures. I am not sure about the definition of what you may call a devout Hindu but in my worldly agenda I do have my way methods (some borrowed while others entirely original) of long distance communication with the Super Power.

Now this religion that I belong to is an extremely complicated one and too may things are left open to diverse interpretations. Most of you would be familiar or at least heard of the Indian Hindu Caste systems as they still exist. Originally the caste system was defined in the Vedic Ages (Once upon a time!!!) on the basis of occupation and accordingly there were four distinct divisions. There were two ways this could be determined. The first one was religious in nature while the other was biological. Typically there were four classes but over time the wise men(sic) decided to divide and divide and divide the people leading to numerous sects and sub sects. Now I didn’t really care about all this convoluted processes but what perked me up was that somewhere conveniently people have made this into a hereditary situation throwing whatever logic the system had earlier to the wind.

Now the religious pundits keep telling us about this ultimate goal of making a housing investment in God’s Housing Society, have a nice residence out there with I am sure all the amenities. But I do wonder about the municipal corporation that needs to exist especially for the caste believers in terms of duties. Will the low class janitor (Sudra) co-exist with the supposedly so called priestly (Brahmin) in terms of post-death benefits in God’s country?

And somehow its during the time of marriage that the Hindu families educated or otherwise, suddenly become extremely conscious of their castes so that I guess the couple can go singing to Heaven together and otherwise they might land up with compatibility issues in the journey towards final destination!!

Here in Seoul I sometimes visit the Buddhist monastery because I get a chance to be at peace with myself in that serene atmosphere, But the marketing techniques applied for propagating ideas must be the different Christian communities out here. Coming out of Mapo subway station I am handed over these leaflets to join the Sunday special service for foreigners in the local church.

While coming down the escalators of Singil station, my end of day thoughts are interrupted by this person who is delivering his never ending diatribe on sacrificing the sinner in a loud pitch through a portable PA system.

Another day inside a local Seoul bus, this slightly aged lady is violating the peace with her own long religious piece. While coming back from Incheon I was engrossed in a Ludlum, and this young couple tapped me for some attention. They had noticed that I was reading an English novel and I had no idea where our conversation was leading to, until the moment when they gave me a “gift” in terms of a free copy of the latest “Awake” magazine. They exclaimed when I professed my awareness of the Jehovah’s Witness (a Christian community) and I was immediately invited to one of the congregations. Did they think that here is another one to bite the dust? They are doing their “Duty” of spreading the love and giving directions of another way of travel towards the Housing Society Management Office!!!

Each one to their own and perhaps your journey would dependent on many factors, like your location, the transportation available and the economics!!! But I still have questions to go. Like you could be preaching me to take an airplane while I am stranded on sea like Tom Hanks in “Castaway”.

But all you guys may not have considered a simple fact. In spite of traveling first class in an airliner, when in queue for immigration, I might just be ahead of you and to top it all, maybe you are deported back or quarantined. Who knows? Sphere: Related Content

Friday, April 7, 2006

A Bong in Korea - An Incomplete Attempt

For the uninitiated, I am about to describe the “bong” persona in the blabber to follow. A Bong happens to be a person of Indian origin but whose mother tongue is a language called Bengali that also happens to be one of the major languages of India. Most of the Bengalis, as they are known, have their roots in the eastern part of India. They also could have roots in “Bangladesh’ a separate country. I might dwell upon the significance later, but for now let it be known that the so-called upper-middle, middle and nouveau(mutually exclusive) Indians have shortened the same to “Bongs”. It would not be an error on my part to confide that a lot of times we do introduce ourselves as a Bong because perhaps the lingo of using the term “Bengali” could be LS. People watching Kandy Floss ( a Indian TV Show) would be familiar with this term but for the others its “Low Society”.

A “Bong” could be attributed with certain stereotypes and though a lot of times it could be true, but sometimes it could be a cultural burden while it could be plain and simple hilarious at other times. One of the major burdens of Bong is that he/she is supposed to be culturally rich. This would mean that all of us have a natural affinity towards the finer arts be it music, art, drama, films, the whole gamut. Additionally we must most probably know how to sing or write. We also should be in love with the great poet named “Tagore” and how could you be a “ Bong” without knowing and loving his work. The Bongs love their fish and why not? They also want their daily dose of rice and if anybody disagrees, you could always apply the “exception” rule. The “Bongs” also have their own funny accent while speaking English like all the other Indians (pardon my comment). So its hilarious when the Bong pronounces the “Violet” as something like “Bhhiolet” but actually I find it funnier when corrected by say a Punjabi(people from Punjab - a northern India Province) who say “Loin” meaning “Lion”. Sorry guys, but I can have other examples too on accents but that’s a different story. I need to now get back to the topic I started off with and my apologies because of this “intended” diversion!!

A Bong in Korea is a good and bad thing to happen. To list down the good points they could go as follows:
Fish is in abundance (You need to know the Korean equivalents)
Rice is not a problem since you would get Basmati at a price, or the Chinese Jasmine Rice would do well.
Bengali music available freely on demand (Internet).
Food is an integral part of a Bengali’s daily life and so is it with Koreans, and if you are experimental (a lot are) then you have a variety out there. Obsession with Food is the phrase I should have used for people who raised their eyebrows.
Bengalis are driven by the “want”, rather than by the “money” backing it up, and therefore there are normally no “exchange conversion” issues at every buying decision “moment of truth”.

There could be more and a reader could enlighten me, but here are the bad ones:

No Durga Puja Festival (Durga is a Hindu Deity worshipped ardently by the Bengalis) since the occasion is not only of worship but also of communion, gaiety and cultural splendour.
No Bengali Associations or any such club where these clannish guys can get together regularly. No Pirated Illegal Bengali Movies Online (Internet).
No Bengali Sweets available (The Bengali has a sweet tooth and the Bong version of milk based sweets/desserts are quite popular in all parts of India).

In local Indian impromptu get-togethers, a bong has a problem with eating just a one course Dal ( Lentil soup with varied density) and rice meal and be verrry satisfied. And if you want to know more about the Bengalis perhaps you would have to wait for another time and occasion. I promise there to dissect the Bong and the Bengali and that should be interesting to do.

I am salivating at the prospect and I just need to remind myself and off we’ll go. Till then, thank you for your attention!! Sphere: Related Content

Thursday, April 6, 2006

Cost of Goods Sold!!

This is not an accounting session nor am I about to deliver a lecture on the better practices of creating a balance sheet. I just started off with that heading because of an event that happened minutes ago. We were watching a Honda advertisement for one of their cars and the domino effect created there was excellent and it was pure art. So in the aftermath we were immersed in absorbing the creation, when a colleague exclaimed that it was all a big waste of money.

I am not the devil’s advocate, but I could not help but point out that the perceptions of people could differ but as in every other case we must have some limits to adhere to, and at least in public. By doing so, many a times it could actually show up one’s ignorance and the degree of your being silly just increases in a geometric progression on the arrogance you disburse.

Money has a funny relationship with every other thing we do or possess in life and that’s not the area of my concern right now. The concern is more on the issue of people evaluating everything by the expenditure. The path tread thus becomes sticky and embarrassing.

I stay in New Delhi, and we all know about the neighbourly competition with reference to the “Conspicuous Consumption” goods. The evaluation by the cost is inherent and present in every possible conversation. The same person when abroad is running around and spending unaccounted money in transportation to find out a good deal and at the end of it is also extremely apologetic about the debited amount. He would plead to keep the amount paid confidential to people back home lest his ego gets a sharp puncture.

Then there are the people whom you converse with, cannot but help talking about the price of anything they possess or show or wear. So you visit a friend’s house and shower appreciation of the Persian Carpet and immediately you would become a recipient of some unnecessary information of the exorbitant price paid and at such a good deal. I have two problems here. The first one is that I was admiring the art and you diverted my mind. Secondly I fail to understand the balance between your “High Value” and “Good Deal”. As far as I am concerned, one tolerated the first comment but the double whammy now not only irritated me but in the process you degraded the value of the item too. God Bless You!!

These same people (you know many of them, don’t you?) can’t just resist interspersing their every bit of conversation with Dollars or Won or Rupees or what have you.

Oh, that’s a fantastic dress, it beautiful on you? What’s the price?!!! WHY CAN’T YOU JUST ADMIRE?

I bought this pair of trousers? How much for? 10000 Won? Oh, you should have gone to Onsu!! This is available there for 5000!!! CHEAP THRILL?

You know what? My friend gave me this scarf as a gift? Isn’t the design great? It’s only 5 Dollars. Isn’t it cheap? HUH?

I am sure you know more examples then I can remember or conjure up out here, but if I had to collect all these small crazy bits of dialogue, it would become a big fat book and that too one which you wouldn’t pay for. What would you say? Priceless!!! Sphere: Related Content

Tuesday, April 4, 2006

Damn It!! Will You Please Shut Up?

Often and on, in different situation I feel like exclaiming thus, but what prevents me from doing so is probably the way I am and for sure you could carry the same trait as mine of not being unnececssarily rude to people. (Am I being funny?)

In the morning today I was having a tripartite discussion on the subject of corruption in different countries when one of the guys suddenly said. “In Korea there is no corruption”!! He was adamant on the issue and it was a futile attempt on my part to let him know that perhaps newspapers were not part of his daily life. He was a man from Singapore and had no inclination to accept our point of view and then a time came where I was itching to make that rude comment.

Sometimes when we friends get together, jokes are but a natural ingredient of the evening. But then we have this guy who enjoys joking about others, but then starts showing his true colours if the joke is on him. He becomes wild and that’s the time one wishes to use the “phrase” in question with aplomb.

Irritation is but a natural feeling and there could be different triggers for us to get into such a mental state. But there is this guy who manages to irritate me as soon as he shows his dentures. According to him, the sun sets in the east, the river flows up the mountain and the cars travel backwards. I am sure you understand what I mean, and as soon as he opens his mouth I feel like utilizing the comment..

I had a friend in Delhi and he was heavily into Yoga and the works. He was ever ready to extol the virtues of diet and exercise on every occasion, as if there is nothing else to talk about. But he had this one major attribute of letting out air from his mouth coupled with this funny throaty sound emission (we know it as the “burp”) at regular intervals. I am not sure of the condition of his digestive sys tem but I hope you get the wind of my feelings.

In any group you have this advisor who could give you directions to do better in every which way or act. He could easily be a sub set of the Mr. Know All (http://seouldays.blogspot.com/2006/03/mr-know-all.html) category explained earlier. Right from how I should design my presentation or the subway route to a destination or buying a camera, he would be so eager to put in his two bits. While I surely do not mind this extra uncalled help, the trouble starts when you quiz him further and he would fall from the sky when I want him to explain to me the relevance of shutter and aperture priority in cameras. That’s the right occasion for me then to exclaim and use the question in question!!

I am not sure whether this happens to you, but my wife has something extremely interesting carved in her hand, especially in the fate line. In a movie theater she would always have these fellow viewers exactly in the row behind who would be incessantly conversing on any subject other than perhaps the movie and in a pitch that would directly interfering with the sound waves coming from the Dolby sound system.. So while you are watching the movie along with the dialogues onscreen; you would get the bonus whispers, giggles and other innuendos as a form of improvised Chinese torture. There are also some people who find it’s their duty to explain each and every dialogue, story or the future screen shots to follow. That’s one of the best occasions to do the killing.

On other occasions, you have some colleagues for whom the “9 to 5” concept does not end. Be it the evening get-togethers, family occasions, children’s birthdays, site seeing visits and any other event, they cannot but discuss the office and whatever else is happening there. I don’t really expect them to appreciate and converse about all nuances of life but its a fair admission on my part that a lot of times I do feel like asking them to just - (you know what). I could have rhymed that but all the same, as long as I can communicate the essence.

I would like to end here though there are many other such occasions and I could carry on for some time more but I don’t want to be on the receiving end, where you would actually turn around and tell me to shut up!!! Sphere: Related Content