Recharge your happiness - A visit to Gyodong

Click HERE for a newspaper article on this!!

Saturday, the 15th of April finally arrived and I woke up to the alarm that I had set. I finished my morning chores in time, as I had to reach the KNTO Building in Dadong by eight forty five or so. This whole week I was waiting for the day to arrive. Firstly, I had never participated in a program like this and secondly, I did not really know what to expect. It was a two-day one-night program where they had selected about thirty foreigners in Seoul through some selection process and I considered myself lucky to be chosen. The itinerary was published well in advance and I was eagerly looking forward to the course of events yet to unfold.

So I landed up at the KNTO building and went in to the reception to find nobody out there until somebody pointed out that the action is the Basement. I did find another guy waiting circumspectly, but I think he just followed behind as I negotiated my way to the quite elaborate B1 Floor that serves as a Tourist Information Centre, Mr. Lee, the gentleman in charge of the show greeted me with a big smile in his face and that was quite a reassurance for me.

Before I get into further details, let me explain what was this trip all about. KNTO and the NACF (National Agricultural Foundation)) has taken a step to promote green tourism in the country. This means that they expect foreigners to come to Korea and visit the countryside, the farms and while they enjoy the uninhibited geography, they would also contribute to the rural economy. More tourists logically “do” have a direct contribution to the economy. KNTO had advertised in the website about this program and since I was anyway looking out for some out if the way activity, I sent in my application. So here I was on my way to an “off the beaten track” sojourn. We were to visit a village about 80 kilometers away from Seoul towards the DMZ and a number of activities scheduled were awaiting us.

The motley crowd had a fair mix of different nationalities. China, Singapore, Japan, Australia\, Russia, Kazakhstan, Canada and USA were represented along with this sole Indian fellow from Seoul. The bus was comfortable and as soon as it started on its course we were welcomed by the charming Dana our guide and a couple of others from KNTO and NACF (the sponsors). A brief run down on our schedule was given along with a bottle of water and a free orange!! Off we were, well prepared to spend some time away from the hustle and bustle of the big city.

It took us about two and a half hours to reach our destination Gyodong, one of the designated “Farmstay” villages, We reached there and while a grand welcome was ready for us, what surprised me was the presence of the media in full force. This was apparently a big event and we had no inkling of that. The reporters, the cameramen they were all there asking us questions and clicking their camera shutters. In fact the television crew requested us to re-alight from the bus since they had missed the original sequence!!

The villagers welcomed us with big grins and we were specially greeted by Mr. Lee, the headman you could say and he took us around the village, It was a quaint little place with well structured individual dwellings and I was wondering as to which one of them was going to be my sleeping joint, but more about that later. The village lay surrounded by small hills beside a stream that I guess joined up with the nearby Hantan river. The dwellers of this village were comparatively younger than the others, and that’s the reason we could see a whole lot of innocent faces playing around and in general adding up to the atmosphere. Mr. Lee took us around the village and we even got introduced to a dog that had a story, of saving lives from fire, behind him. The houses were neat with their own little courtyards and individual gardens and I could see some spring flowers too.

After that brief walk through, we were treated with some coffee to begin with and we all slowly petered into the dining hall, where a sit-down arrangement was already in place for lunch. I guess we were to eat first and then would come the hard work!! Lunch was pretty elaborate in the usual Korean style. We were treated with the delicious sun-dubu (soft tofu with a mixture of salt and sesame oil as accompaniment). The mandatory kimchi and other cold salads were there too.

Our hunger satiated, we immediately left for the mushroom farm that was about 20 minutes away from the village. The bus was travelling on top gear, with the media convoy of five cars following us with equal zeal!!

The mushroom farm was interesting, and was a lesson by itself since I guess none of us had any prior knowledge about mushroom cultivation. The mixing of the seeds, the germination in controlled environments - they were all new to me. Later we were allowed to pick mushrooms and that’s when we were informed on how mushrooms keep sprouting out of the organic mould. It reminded me of the Tintin series of comics where in The Shooting Stars, mushrooms were mushrooming!! We posed for the photographers as usual. We were also treated with some mushrooms and Kochujung (Korean Chilli Pepper/Garlic Paste) and we all sampled the same in spite of a full stomach! I did click some photographs their but then I had to allocate some shots for an extremely cute little local Korean child jumping about all around us.

It was time to move on and the next stop was the rice farm. A few Koreans from neighbourhood towns had come there to help the farmers in setting the rice seeds in trays of soil that would be later transferred to the green house for growing saplings. Some of us joined in the activity while we all cheered. The village folks were all smiling too, and I guess we were providing quite an elegant show for them.

It was time to go but before that we were demonstrated how in olden times the folks used to lug heavy paddy bags on their back. A few tried, but I guess couldn’t muster up the technique required to pull off the stunt. Surprisingly, I was hungry again and perhaps it was the promise of bulgogi (barbecued beef) that made my enzymes go bonkers. We were off again and now back to the village for some more “activities”.

The crowd in the village had decidedly increased and the reason was a direct fall out of the school children returning home after a whole day of studies. They had all lined up along with the others to see us now made to sit on the community centre steps and awaiting our next set of instructions. A basket arrived with small bamboo cylinders with a hole on the body, somewhat like a flute to be played sideways. We were given apiece each along with an elastic band and a small piece of paper. The paper was to be wrapped around one side of the cylinder and then the band rolled around keep the former in place. Now all we had to do was bring the piece near our mouth, the lips touching the hole mentioned earlier, and then blow/hum. The result was termed as music contrary to what my ear was hearing! So now we were this bunch of amateur musicians trying to produce music through this equipment. We were told that as a tradition in olden days, when the farmer or shepherd boy as the case may be would get bored in the fields, this was one piece of musical equipment that kept him entertained. I did not dare to blurt out my decidedly rude query regarding the bloke’s sourcing of elastic bands and paper those days!!

Finally we were all a bit relaxed and I did get down to a bit of socialising. Not that I had spoken to some before, but now I made that extra effort to go and talk to the other group members. Engineers from Samsung in Suwon, English Teachers from Seoul, tourists from Singapore, students from China, Japan and even Kazhakhstan, they were all there. Before we could really warm up, the next activity was announced and off we were busy in trying to wind up straws to create straw-sandals. To be honest with you, I was a disaster but don’t form your impressions too soon. I was compelled to learn the technique by this good teacher out there (an old man of about 90) and he made me do it right all the way!! Language was not the barrier out here!! It was the seamless flow of mental energy!! Later I did pose for the KBS cameraman for a few sequences of walking around, but I am sure that will not find a place on the editing table.

The filming was in full swing and the producer had informed that he would name it as “Recharging of Happiness”. In spite of a few smirks from the international crowd, I could feel the sincerity in his mind and that’s what mattered. So now we were almost done and though my digestive enzymes were half dead, the news of dinner woke them up. It was about 6.30 in the evening and we could now smell the meat being barbecued on charcoal grills. In Korean they call it Samgyeopsal which basically means three layered meat (meat, fat, meat) strips barbecued, Yow are supposed to take a piece of meat, a garlic clove, a bit of baap (steamed rice), kochujung and all of these wrap it up in a lettuce leaf and consume. A glass of makoli (sweet rice wine) as accompaniment and that made my day. I didn’t miss the earlier promised bulgogi.

The sun had set and it was time for a bonfire. The villagers had all arrived back after a whole day’s work and we all started mixing around. As I mentioned earlier, we were eager to know all about each other and we tried any which way you can. The best part is that we succeeded in our efforts and that’s what counts.

The bonfire was up and in the light created by the fire I could see the glowing faces all around, perhaps trying to absorb the moments as they occurred. The fire was very comforting since it was a bit chilly and it was like the nucleus of the village spreading its warmth on this cross border congregation.

The Samulnori dance performers were scheduled next and I was all along waiting for this since percussion music has always been a favourite of mine. They were mostly housewives and teenagers playing those rustic Korean traditional drums and I was enjoying the beats. It lasted for about an hour and I could feel my pulse dancing to the beats. At the end of it was a bonus of an opportunity of us able to try the drums and I jumped at it. A performer tried to teach me the sequence of beats that I quickly reproduced much to her delight and mine too!! The drums and the other instruments were quite similar to a lot of Indian instruments and I was quite pleased on the whole. Mind you, the media was there too. They were participating along with us and also doing their mandatory bit of asking us questions on how we are feeling and allied.

Well it was almost 9:30 and it was again time for some Makoli and Korean Pancakes made of some vegetables that I forgot to ask!! The announcements were due regarding the unfortunate families who would have to host us for the night and I am sure both sides were equally circumspect. But that bit of uneasiness was over and done with as soon as I entered me house my respective host. On hindsight I could tell you, that they were more than glad to have me as their guest. It was my mind that was on the blink rather than theirs. The complex walls of society, culture and language were broken so smoothly and it was just like sand meshing into more sand. We got along famously and the hot cup of coffee was just a symbol of the warmth all around. It was a small family, consisting of a couple and two kids going to middle and junior schools. We talked about India, my stay in Korea, their likes and my hobbies and anything else under the sun. They were more curious than me and I obliged with as much information as they wanted. The day had come to an end and how unfortunate was that,

At bed with my eyes closed I thought about the serene countryside and the abundance of oxygen and energy. The grass is greener on the other side, but when that there’s nothing to beat the green of the countryside!!

DAY 2:

My cell phone was tuned to ring at 6:30 but I didn’t allow the event to occur since I was up and about earlier. I finished my morning chores and in no time I was ready to attack the day and the start was with some traditional Korean breakfast consisting of a hot soup, rice and some other varieties of cold salads, followed with a cup of hot coffee. We were quite glad to see each other in the morning and while we exchanged the morning greetings we also reflected on the day that had gone by. All of us were quite elated by the experience and we were all looking forward to the series of activities to follow.

Today was sightseeing day I knew that we would be visiting the de-militarized zone between North and South Korea. The prospect was exciting and we all boarded the bus on our way to a place named Goseokjeong. There is a museum on North and South Korea there and there is a huge compound with a concrete statue of the local Korean Robin Hood during the days of the Chosun Dynasty by the name of Guk-Jung Im.

But more than that it was the scenic beauty of the Hantan River meandering its way in between the cliffs and I did take some shots of the picturesque river valley. We spend some time soaking in the natural beauty around us and then off we were to the DMZ area. I wish we if we could have spent some more time out they’re but time as usual was the spoilsport and I didn’t blame it since we had so much to cover.

On the way a Korean soldier got up in the bus as an escort and we all clapped for him and that must have only added to his awe. In no time we were transported to the 2nd Tunnel entrance (Tunnels were dug by North Korea to infiltrate South Korea even after the agreements done post-Korean war and this one was discovered in 1975) and we had to deposit our cameras since photography was not allowed inside. We were given yellow helmets to wear and we started climbing down the narrow stairway. We were now almost 100 metres underground or more when we landed in the actual tunnel pathway. It was hard granite all around and I am sure it must have been quite an effort to come this far by the North Koreans. The pains people take to fight!!

We were told that while on reconnaissance duty a few South Korean soldiers heard some underground explosions and then after investigations and excavations they discovered the tunnels. Four such tunnels have been discovered and there could be more. So while the preliminary explorations were on, South Korea lost 10 soldiers due to mine blasts inside the tunnel. We walked the full stretch for about 700 meter and reached the end where we were not allowed any further. There was nothing spectacular about the tunnel, and rather it was the feel of it that mattered. The visions of war and fighting are extremely traumatic in there own way and this was perhaps another reminder of the cruel times that we are in and may encounter personally any time

The sombre mood however quickly vanished as we came out of the tunnel and we again became the tourists we are and clicked photographs with the guard and some of the girls even posed with him as if this was a fashion magazine-shooting going on.

Over and all, I was quite happy with the visit and we were again packed into the bus which started tolling towards our next destination. The Iron Triangle Observatory was where from you could see the North Korea border. The telescopes were ready to show us the area but not before gobbling up some coins. In tourism, everything and anything is like a vending machine. Keep pouring money, and it churns out the stuff. I was not too impressed by the observatory and perhaps I need to visit another one in some other place for a better sight.

The Woljeongri station was what kindled my interest. This was an old relic station, and they had preserved a train which was bombed during the war. The memories of war are not a pleasant sight and this was one of them. Outside in beside the parking lot there was a garden that had several obelisks set up with inscriptions in Korean, The South Korean common man’s plea for unification was publicized through them.

That was DMZ and I could see the crowd now decidedly tired and I felt that most were now awaiting lunch and the departure back home. That was not to be so as yet since we were yet to visit a building that was the office of the labour party prior to the division of the country. The remains were basically the structure and this was one place where freedom fighters were tortured and interrogated.

We were made to stand together in front of the building for a group photograph and then we all were back in our seats. It was lunch time, folks and on arrival at the Gyodong village we were again treated by the smiles of the host and of course that was followed by Bibimbaap (Steamed rice mixed with vegetables a red tomato pepper sauce, a fried egg, a favorite of mine. A cup of coffee, some pleasantries, some hugs, some smiles and we were back on our way to Seoul.

The media was there to take some interviews and thy asked a few relevant questions. One of them was the reason for me choosing to apply. The second question in their mind was an open ended one, where they wanted to know my about my feelings and experience. The third was about my most memorable occasion or moment.

I gave them the reply that I genuinely thought and had reasoned it out to myself. The reason for me applying for this trip was to get away from the big city and breathe the innocence of the countryside. I don’t know about the others but when I experienced the moments the feelings over awed me. The hug of a farmer who I didn’t know, the smile of a child seeing an alien like me, the care and the respect by the villagers, they were all adding up. Tears were absent, but what was crying was the emotional attachment to all that was happening around. This was the best weekend ever without a doubt.

Before the start of the journey, if you remember, the KBS producer had mentioned that he would name the program “ Recharge your happiness”. (Translated from Korean). In the beginning the idea was superfluous but at the end of it I knew what he meant. Sphere: Related Content